Back across the Atlantic and the voyage comes to a close: The voyage back across the Atlantic was much like the one over with the exception of the weather. After once again passing thru the Azores our route took us north of the route used coming over. The temperatures were decidedly cooler. Consequently the pool was never filled. My days were spent pretty much the same as before, but I had much more interaction with the other passengers throughout the day. I will talk about them a little later in this journal, but for now I just want to mention that with only one exception we all got on together quite well. We had some serious and some not so serious discussions. Most of our days were spent lounging on the bridge (but in long trousers and a light jacket, instead of shorts and a shirt) just watching the sea go by, or reading, or napping. Terribly enjoyable (although some would find it boring).

As on our way over, we passed through the Azores and again, as on our way over the crew could be seen around the deck with their cell phones popped in the ears talking to loved ones back in their homeland.

After the Azores, it was 5 days or so until we would reach our first port of call in the United States, New York. I was looking forward to visiting the “Big Apple” and had made tentative plans with a cruising buddy to possibly get together. However, the vagaries of blah, blah, blah. It was also during this part of the voyage that I decided that I would change my plans a bit and disembark the ship in Norfolk, VA, rent a car and drive home. There were a few reasons for this. One was that we were bypassing Savannah, so I would miss visiting that lovely city anyhow. Another reason was just the logistics of getting off the ship and making my way to an area where I could be picked up in Miami. But the deciding factor for me was the ever increasing obnoxious behavior of one of the passengers.

A couple days out, Claudio told us that there would be a party that night for the crew and passengers in our lounge at 6 p.m. It was the feast day of the cook’s name. Sounded like a good reason for a party to me. At 6 that evening, we made our way to the dining room. The lounge and dining room were decorated and a spread of hors d’oeuvres and drinks (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) were laid out. Most of the crew were there along with all the officers not on watch. The captain and Chief Engineer came in and the party got in gear. The Chief Engineer was new on board, having just arrived in Portugal. He was much more outgoing than the previous one. He was also the proud father of a PhD. His son was a professor of computer technology at a university in Romania. It was a nice party and broke up about 8 p.m. It was a break for the crew and a chance for the passengers to meet and mingle with them. I believe all of us enjoyed the experience (crew and passenger alike).

The passengers:

On the trip between Miami and New York there were a total of 9 other passengers and found them all to be genuinely interesting, informed and well traveled people.

Patty and Karen, the two retired teachers from Columbus were delightful companions. As I stated before, both had traveled via freighters before and were able to offer some good advice over the course of the trip, especially Patty. Many delightful hours were spent with these ladies.

Louis, the retired defense contractor, seemed at first to be an embittered man, but, once I got to know him I just felt he was a bit of a curmudgeon. He was thrice divorced and wasn’t enthralled with the female population. He and Karen would clash on more than one occasion during discussions at the dining table. Yet they could put aside their differences and enjoy a game of trivia. Louis was a recovering alcoholic with 18 years sobriety. He and I had many lengthy discussions . . . . . he was a bit philosophical for me, but interesting. We talked about his sobriety and his apparent anger. I liked Louis and will keep in touch with him after he returns to the States later in the summer. He was on his way for a two week visit with a son in Sweden, then would be traveling around Europe until September.

Alain and Nicole were also delightful companions. As I wrote earlier, Alain was a retired Brigadier General of the French Army. His 40 year career started in the 50s after graduation from École Spéciale Militaire de Saint-Cyr, France’s military academy. He spoke very little English, but would always refer to an English phrase book if necessary. At 72, he was the senior statesman amongst us passengers. We developed a quick affinity for each other because of our military backgrounds. Each morning we would salute each other. Nicole was his charming partner of almost 50 years. She spoke no English, but had no problems joining in the table conversations, knowing that Peer would translate into English. She was slim and trim and a stunning looking woman in her late 60’s. She must have been a real knockout when she was younger. Unfortunately, this charming couple only stayed onboard for the few days between France and Lisbon where they departed as they had to be back in France the next Sunday for either the First Communion or the Confirmation of one of their grandchildren.

I have spoken of Chantal and Peer. Another delightful couple. Belgian born, they were long time residents of France, had retired and were residing in Nice, France. Peer worked in mergers and acquisitions (I believe), but at one time they had owned and operated a B&B. They had 3 children and I believe 2 granddaughters of whom they were quite proud. As can be seen from earlier entries, we developed a good relationship and traveled about the ports together. They had originally signed on to depart the ship in Savannah where they would then travel around the south, stay with some family in North Carolina, then fly up to the northeast for 10 days. When Savannah was pulled from the trip itinerary, they were given the opportunity to ride the Arno to Miami, but opted to disembark in Norfolk. Peer and I talked on the phone a couple of times while they were still in the States and we maintain an email correspondence still. My wife and I hope to visit this delightful couple next year both here in the States and in Nice.

Pierre (the junior) was a young executive from Lyon, France (I believe). 37 years old, he was married with 2 young children. His wife would not accompany him on the ship as she had just started a new retail job back home and did not have vacation time. Like many Europeans, Pierre had 5 weeks (maybe more) vacation, and he decided to travel to New York via the ship. His wife would fly over to New York city at the end of his voyage and they would spend a long 4 day weekend touring the Big Apple. He was, by far, the youngest of the passengers, but had no trouble fitting in with us “oldies”. He was bi(multi) lingual and spoke more than acceptable English. He had a great sense of humor and was a great companion. We have also exchanged an email or two since the trip.

Pierre (the senior) was a retired French-American who lived in Palm Beach, Florida, but also had a home in France (somewhere in Provence I believe). When we first met his first words to me after introductions was “God Bless America, I hate the fucking French". At the time I thought it a rather odd greeting. Originally charming and witty, he explained that his mother was French and his father was not (or perhaps the other way). He was taunted as a child because of this and was harassed during his compulsory military service. After his military service he emigrated from France to America and became a citizen. He worked his entire life as a maitre d’ in upscale restaurants in New York first, then in Palm Beach. His parents had left him the estate in France when the passed on. We was quite an outrageous flirt, especially with Karen. For the first couple of days all was well, then one night a discussion ensued at the supper table over what type of fish we were eating. Actually it was a disagreement. He became quite belligerent and started tossing the *f* word around. He finally got up and left the table. Then a couple of nights later another outburst happened. After the evening meal was finished Claudio would go around the table and ask if we wanted cheese and fruits. If we said yes, he would put a plate in front of us. He would then get the cheese tray and offer each passenger who had said yes a selection. This night after he was finished and was starting with the fruit selection, Pierre said to him, “What, I am not f***ing here”. Claudio did not understand what he meant and Pierre unloaded on him. Claudio quickly got the cheese selection and offered it to him, but he refused. Pierre insisted that he had ignored him, Claudio politely told him that he had not, but apologized anyhow. Claudio had indeed asked him, as he had asked all of us, and we all heard it. When we told Pierre this, he got up and left with a few choice expletives. It was apparent to all that he was intoxicated. Later that evening, I went to his room and told him that his behavior was inappropriate and that he owed the ladies and Claudio an apology. Although never that bad again, his behavior towards Claudio never really improved. Then he started bitching about the Captain. Passengers are able to purchase alcohol, wine, cigarettes, from the ships stores at duty free prices. But it is a cash transaction, either on the spot or on an account that had to be settled in cash at the end of the voyage. He insisted to Claudio that he could write a check for it. Apparently the Captain did not agree. Pierre was riding the ship to Miami, where I was originally supposed to debark. I have not corresponded with him, nor will I. Because of his increasing poor behavior and because the ships schedule was already pushed back a couple of days from the original, I decided that I would check into renting a car in Norfolk and driving back home.

New York (25 May 2006): Early on this morning I headed up to the bridge to catch my first glimpse of America since leaving. Soon we approached land on our starboard side. This, if my geography is correct, would be Long Island. A slow transit took us towards the Ambrose light. Soon thereafter, the pilot boat approached us. Once in cell phone range, I FINALLY CALLED MY WIFE. She was a little upset that I had not called before, but did understand. After calling her I started looking for my cruise buddy’s contact numbers. I looked for over a half hour before giving up. I could not find the damn piece of paper.

The transit would take most of the day as we journeyed up the Hudson River under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge, then thru the Kill Van Kull tidal strait under the Bayonne Bridge to Newark Bay to Port Elizabeth where the container facilities were located. We would tie up about 4 p.m. But, once again Customs and Immigration held us up and a lackadaisical Port Agent combined to make this a poor port call. One of the crew had to see a doctor and the port agent was asked to arrange transportation for the crewmember to the doctor and us passengers to the Seaman’s Club, where we could make plans to possibly get into NYC. The port agent said no problem as a bus was bringing two new passengers to the ship and he would drop us off at the Seaman’s club before taking the crewmember to the doctor. Unfortunately, he neglected to tell the bus driver this as he dropped the two new passengers off and promptly left all of us and the ill crew member stuck. Now the Seaman’s club had a shuttle that ran every half hour between the port and the club, unfortunately, between 5 and 6 the driver was on break. Of course it was just after 5 when the bus deserted us, so we had to wait until 6 p.m. The van arrived and at our request delivered us to a huge outlet mall where young Pierre finally caught a cab to meet up with his wife. Because of the hour and our lack of any real knowledge of transportation, we decided to forgo a trip into Manhattan (damn, damn). Peer, Chantal and I stopped at a Chili’s and had a tall, cool beer. Then, as I had a couple of things to pick up, we separated and agreed to meet in an hour back at Chili’s for supper. I found what I needed then just walked around this huge mall. We met up for dinner. I wanted to pick up the bill because we were now in America, but Peer would not allow it. We caught the Seaman’s Club van back to the ship and were back onboard about 11 p.m. A rather disappointing visit to New York as we had to be back onboard by noon the next day. To make it even more disappointing, the next day at sea, when I opened up my journal, there in a slot on the inside of the journal was the sheet of paper with my cruise buddy’s phone contacts. Now I don’t know if we could have hooked up while I was there, but I know she was expecting my call.

The next day broke overcast and rainy. At breakfast the next morning we met the two new passengers. Both were French and were on their way back to France after a couple of months in the States. They were not traveling together, yet they were. Let me explain. First off, I did not write down their names but both were in their 60’s . . . one man, one woman. They had came to America on one of the other CMA CGM ships on our route. The man would take a few weeks and travel around the country by train. He never said so, but I got the impression he did not like to fly. The lady had recently been widowed and was visiting with her daughter in New York. They would now head back to France once again, on the same ship.

The ship was docked within a couple of miles (probably less) of the Newark International Airport. I spent most of the morning watching planes take off and land or watching other container ships arrive and depart. Then it started to rain. I had been able to make arrangements for a one way car rental thru Budget. They did not charge me and arm and a leg and there was not a drop off fee. The only problem was I understood them to say I had to pick it up by 2 p.m. That would be fine as we were due in Norfolk by 10 a.m. That evening I spoke privately with Claudio. I had a picture taken of the Arno while she was departing Lisbon on a previous voyage. As a gift, I had this frame and gave it to him. He was quite pleased and even a little overcome with this little gift. I also gave him a generous gratuity. He deserved it.

The pilot came onboard about 1 or so and we were underway for Norfolk around 2 p.m. We reversed our course and headed back out to sea. I started gathering my gear together and after dinner that evening I sadly started packing up my suitcases. Some of us passengers gathered in the lounge and enjoyed a pleasant evening of banter.

The next morning after breakfast, I took my bags via elevator to the 1^st deck as I did not want to have to wait for the elevator, because once we got to Norfolk (actually Portsmouth), my time to catch a cab and get to Norfolk and pick up the car appeared to be getting shorter. As we approached the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, the pilot came onboard. I called my wife and told her where we were and that I would call later in the day and let her know that I was on the way home. I was getting just a little worried as it looked like we would not dock until noon at the earliest and I wasn’t sure if I could make it to the rental agency on time or not. So, I called Budget back and they informed me the agency was open not until 2 p.m. that morning, but until 2 a.m. the next morning. I felt relieved after that and just enjoyed the rest of my voyage.

These were familiar waters as I had been stationed on an aircraft carrier back in the 70’s and had made this transit more times than I could remember. As this was the 1^st day of the Memorial Day weekend, the bay boating traffic was horrible. I think that everybody who owned a pleasure craft in the Hampton Roads area had it on the water that morning. As we approached the Hampton Tunnel, I looked over and saw 3 of our nuclear carriers tied up at the Pier 12 area of the base at Norfolk. Now I had seen 3 of our conventional carriers tied up at one time back in 1972, but never 3 of these behemoths. They were the USS Dwight D. Eisenhower (CVN-69), USS Theodore Roosevelt (CVN-71) and the USS George Washington (CVN-73). Quite an impressive to this old sailor.

After passing the Naval Base, we headed up the river towards our berth at the Portsmouth terminal. Lunch was quick and warm good-byes were said. I will indeed remember all of my fellow passengers and all but one with fondness. I headed up to the bridge for a final time to pick up my passport and for a hearty farewell to the Captain and crew on the bridge. I would be privileged to sail with this group of sailors anytime.

I spoke with the customs agent and port police officer. They gave me directions to which way to go to pick up a cab that had been called for me. I went back to my room and after ascertaining that I had not forgot anything, I headed down to the gangway for the last time. I picked up my luggage and signed out in the log book. Usually one of the stewards would help us off with our luggage, but I suspect that they were busy with the other people departing (Karen, Patty, Peer and Chantal). The Bos’n Victor, noticed they were not there to help and grabbed my bags and off we headed down the gangway. With one final glance, I headed down the pier to await the arrival of my taxi.

It was a while before the taxi arrived, but one soon did and we headed off to Norfolk. Half an hour later and $45 lighter I was at the Budget Rental. I was on the road by 2:30 and would drive straight home to Florida arriving around 3:00 a.m.

My journey had ended.

Some final and random thoughts.

About the only thing similar between a mass market cruise and this type of cruise is that they both are seagoing ventures. This type of travel is not for everybody. One must be adventurous, self-reliant, and as I have mentioned over and over – FLEXIBLE.

On a freighter you are stuck with the passengers you travel with. On a cruise ship, you can normally manage to avoid them if you want.

The crews on both cruise ships and freighters are hard, hard working individuals.

Make sure you have a planning list made out well in advance of your trip. You can add or delete items as necessary.

On a freighter, no matter the length of the trip, you only need enough clothes to for 7-10 days as there are laundry facilities available. You do not need to bring anything fancy as the atmosphere is strictly casual.

Money – Make sure you have enough cash. Or, have a viable option, i.e. credit card with cash withdrawal or an ATM with an accessible PIN. I learned that traveler’s checks are as popular nor as easy to cash as they were previously. Had I had a proper PIN, I could have gotten by with a couple hundred dollars cash to start this trip (and possibly even less).

If I were to do another freighter trip, it probably would not be on a containership. Their time in port is short and so much depends on time of arrival as to how much time you have to spend in any given port. Patty mentioned that on a bulk freighter the time in port can range from 1-3 days and even more. If you are interested in ports rather than just the sea travel, this is something to think about.

One distinct draw-back, especially for me, would have been to have no other passengers. I suppose I would have been able to enjoy myself, but certainly not as much as I did interacting with the other passengers.

IMPORTANT: Find out as much information about your port of embarkation/debarkation as possible. I was somewhat familiar with the Port of Miami, but I was still surprised at the difficulty I experienced in getting to the ship. Getting off in Miami would have been even more difficult. Pierre the elder was transporting a wood burning stove that he had brought in France back on the ship with him. This thing weighed at least 300 pounds and he had no idea how he would get it off the docks to his home in Palm Beach. I am sure he found some way, but . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Take plenty of reading material or other “things to do”. You are charged with your own entertainment. When you leave the ship, contribute to the ship’s library for travelers who will follow.

Meanwhile, while I was on the cruise I took over 400 digital photos. After paring down the repetitive or bad photos I still have well over 300 posted at Webshots.com. If you want, please view them at the following links and enjoy “My Sea Journey”.

http://cards.webshots.com/invite/pickup/117150157rPjb/album/551050114gpaAnK

http://cards.webshots.com/invite/pickup/117155241qFjP/album/551052530TbcFXS

http://cards.webshots.com/invite/pickup/117199938aDyx/album/551056285kpwxzq